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León’s abundant colonial heritage

León’s abundant colonial heritage

León’s tumbledown bus terminal belies its rich colonial heritage, instantly perceptible in its architecture and structure.  The chicken bus chucks its passengers onto León terminal’s sweltering bricks. Tourists are culled. Quick as a wink, my backpack lands in the...
Selva Negra: unforgettable pristine cloud forest

Selva Negra: unforgettable pristine cloud forest

The corroded, abandoned army tank at Selva Negra Mountain Resort’s entrance is the only noticeable remnant of the northern interior’s violent past.  At the Bavarian-style gatehouse, the guard confers with my driver and lifts the red and white striped bar...
Cascada Santa Emile a stunner to stare at

Cascada Santa Emile a stunner to stare at

A short walk from the rural highway, I enter an ecolodge that pierces a half-moon of jungle framed rock faces.  I explore trails along coffee, banana and cacao plantations.  I descend a steep pathway from the clifftops, along tiers of viewing points,...
Don’t stumble into the Mouth of Hell

Don’t stumble into the Mouth of Hell

The shuttle makes its way through storied Masaya, a revolutionary stronghold from which Sandinista guerrillas launched their final assault on the Somoza dictatorship in 1979.  Whether as signposts to the gates of hell or as humbling displays of our powerlessness...
Laguna de Apoyo sanctuary of stunning beauty

Laguna de Apoyo sanctuary of stunning beauty

Apoyo Lagoon Nature Reserve is a mostly undiscovered sanctuary of stunning beauty straddling the Granada and Masaya Departments. This pristine lagoon’s abysmal blue depths invite swimmers and divers, but mostly draws travelers to relax at its beach club along the rim...